Thursday, 7 January 2010

A gentle stroll around Brandeston...... looking for birds

On a cold Saturday at the beginning of January, most people would rather have a duvet day.No chance of that here as Jane and I put on several layers of warm clothes and welly boots and gather at a nearby farm. The clock hadn't even struck nine and we were patiently waiting for the 'guns' to draw pegs for the days shoot.

We have all had a guess as to the number of birds we expect to be shot and amount of shots fired to reach our tally. The winner is announced after dinner at the pub tonight. As a general rule, a good ratio is 3:1 for shots to birds, remember this when we do the final tally.

All systems go! guns are off and we are armed with sticks and flags. Yes my friends, today I am a beater!! Rummaging in amongst the trees of the local woods and tapping and whooshing to get the pheasants and partridges airborne.


Now some might think its all about just getting some birds on the end of a gun. Oh no, its harder than that. We strategically take our corners of the wood and push the birds out where we want them. The guns think they have the upper hand you see. 'Over here, up a bit, by peg 3'. Get over yourselves, their coming out and its your job to pick them out.

As a chef you can take produce for granted. Not here we don't. It is because we care that we get out and about and see where our food comes from. By getting out in the woods and catching the early January breeze you feel alive. The birds are taking advantage of the warm ground cover and hiding in the roots of old trees. As we wandered through the hazel wood, we find them huddled under a pile of hazel twigs. A tap from the stick and they soon take flight.



A beaters friend is his dog. There to act on commands and seek the hidden birds. Dotty is one such dog that does, occasionally, as she is told. Winding her way through and collecting a flurry of feathers.

Two woods down and with a poor head count we head off for the best part of the day so far. Gathered at another farm we crack open the port and whiskey macs and sample the sausage rolls. The diet was not in full swing but was pencilled in for a few days after.

The chatter turns to the ones that got away and the flight they took. With it being a village shoot and the village farmers making up the guns, the birds have no escape. The plan is that we will follow the birds. They are far to cold and desperate to settle in this cold weather. Another drink? don't mind if I do. Sausage roll? why not. Its only 11'o clock and I am feeling like I don't have a care in the world. Business? no mate I am retired...for the day.



Right, enough. Lets crack on and get us some birds. The woods are no hiding place and we all pile into the back of the trailer and head over to our drop off point. Now this is where the planners dream really does come true. The guns are all in place, and I have an important job. The rookie is in demand!!! Into the lower field where the last two guns will be I must Shoo the birds up into the path of the other beater. His job, move them over the maize. Now we have a plan. The rest of the workers are coming down the field slowly working in a line and getting the birds into a nice forward movement through the maize. The dogs scramble through the tall maize and work the birds. I am placed in the clearing in the middle of the maize with a rope with old bits of feed bags tied to it. I am to swirl it like a skipping rope and as the birds come towards me, shoo them up. Its like taking candy from a baby. They take a low flight towards me, with a swirl they gain height. The odd holler and shout helps them rise even more. The crack of the gun and a slow flap tells you we have supper being delivered to our feet. Gun number 6 has his trusted dog at heel, and on command the pheasant is recovered. Superb. The act of flight, gun, owner and dog in a matter of 30 seconds working like a well oiled machine. It is poetry in motion. Now i know the vegetarians will have a lot to say, but this is country living. These guys work this land, they breed these birds and they have a days shoot out of it. Its serious stuff for everyone. The head count tally is well up after that little drive so we all head to the next drop off point. Beaters proud of what they have achieved.



Lunchtime. A chance to sit and rest. The guns seem keen to give yet more instruction as to where the birds need to be. A cup of tea, a sandwich and back outside to the cold. This time we are over the other side of the village. A team is assigned to one side of the wood and I am sent on the outside. Off we go. Oops, that was a rabbit hole. Well dodged and I didn't fall over. It may have had something to do with the rabbit coming out that helped my footing. Blast, they are cutting back on me. You can tell the birds are well fed as the height is so poor. I stand in the middle of the field waving a flag. I am surprised I don't end up with half a pound of shot up my bum. Again, the silly birds head towards what they think is cover, but that wood is next.Ha Ha.

The snow has started and we find ourselves in a true winter wonderland. Those birds that thought the woods were a hiding place are sadly mistaken. The beaters arc their way through this wood forcing the birds out as they go. The guns are ready and take down a good number on this drive. The skies darken and we beaters are grateful for the shelter that the woods offer.

The next wood is a bit tricky. It takes a while for the guns to get in place. This is where I meet a pheasant by my foot. Hiding in the tree roots is a hen bird who thought we would miss her. No such luck. I didn't see if she got away as I was trying to stay on my feet. No fresh carpet in here. You take your own life as you walk across the boggy ground and dodge the brambles and hanging branches.
We meet at the bridge and plot our last wood. This is the wood I went to in the summer when the chicks had arrived. They were due a feed and I wanted to pay them a visit as this would then mean I had fed them, hounded them and cooked them. Very cave Man I know, but food miles is now zero so that's what counts. As we lie in wait I here something coming towards me. Its a young deer who is oblivious to the whole day and just wants to get home. One last drag through the woods reveals a good bag of birds and a glorious sunset as we come out. The views today have been superb. Views you take for granted as you wait for customers to come into the pub. Views that not everyone gets to see as they are not allowed to walk across the fields under normal circumstances.



It is time to head back now and count the days take. As they are unloaded, everyone is trying to do a head count to see if they are close with their guess. Jane had selected 69 and I had gone mid 70's.
The birds were distributed amongst the guns and beaters. I declined as I was aware that the surplus would be coming to the pub anyway.



Jane and I headed home to the pub and a nice pint of Adnams. Off for a bath and get ready for dinner. Big mistake!! I sat on the bed and let the fresh air of the day take over me and fell asleep. I ended up being the last down for dinner. He who lives nearer is always last. Dinner was roasted pork belly, mash, leek and mustard sauce. Follow that with a chocolate brownie and a couple of pints of Adnams and I would call that a day to remember.

The winners of the birds shot was read out along with the shots fired. After the long and excessive Christmas break the guns did admit they couldn't quiet do it. Head count was recorded at 71. That means Jane and I lost. Rookies you see. What do we know. The ratio of shots to birds was revealead at 4:1. Must try harder gentlemen.

I would thoroughly recommend this to anyone. The birds have been in our shed waiting and have become dinner dishes. As I write people are munching away on Pheasant casserole. Dan has prepared pheasant roulades for customers to take away and cook at home and pass off as their own. We have 2 more shoot days before the end of the season, so its someone elses turn next. Until next season, my beating days are over.

Thursday, 10 December 2009

The state of pubs as I see it

As the title suggests this is just my thoughts. Please contact me and discuss as you see fit, but remember, if everyone else's job was easy, we would all change tomorrow.

I read with interest that village pubs, town centre boozers, city drinking holes and tucked out of the way cosy dining pubs are going to the wall all to quickly. I also read with interest that occasionally villagers get together to save the closed down pub from the hands of the developer.
Its not the fact that these places are closing that niggles me its the way that a "village" gathers and piles all its money into buying, opening and running the closed pub.

Firstly, why? If it was run well, then it would be trading and not at the mercy of Acme developers with unwanted luxury accommodation.
Secondly, if they had supported the place in the beginning then it would still be open. A village or small town gets a name and a reputation from its pub and for its pub. If there is no pub, sometimes there is a drop in the house price. If the village has a good pub, the village becomes a desirable place to live in much the same way as you wouldn't buy a house in the worst end of town with the roughest boozer around for fear of your life and possessions.
Thirdly, how can a group of maybe 5 to 10 locals take on a pub and run it the way they see fit. The only way this can actually work is if the brains of the operation has 95% of the others doing as he wishes. If this is the case then maybe he should have bought it himself. The truth is that he couldn't afford to and dare not put his house down as a deposit and take the chance of losing £100K. Therefore by only placing £10k on red he stands a chance and didn't die living the dream.
I would love to be a racing driver, but I dint get 10 mates and bid for Honda last season in the hope we could make it work.

Pub life is not about saving the local that has stood there for centuries. it is about offering people somewhere warm and friendly to go. Somewhere to eat, drink and chat. You need to know where Jim has got his latest car from, how Mrs Jones medication is working out, how well the kids are doing at uni and above all, listen to the one they all ignore.

I have worked in this trade for 20+ years now and sit back and wonder why I get up in the morning. The simple truth is that I love what I do. Everyday offers new challenges. I wouldn't change what I do, I would just be a little richer before I started. Go ahead people take the challenge, but do it the right way. Fighting to help your local survive is where your energy is spent best. Join the landlord for a drink and ask if you can help before it gets to the stage of closure. Help him with his negotiations with the brewery. Offer your services to him in exchange for the odd drink or meal. How many gardeners, plumbers, financial advisers and marketing people do you know right now that could do a job for their local publican before he calls for a taxi to get him out of there.

Taking over the local once it has gone is a form of insult. "Sorry you didn't succeed at running the pub, but since you fled with your 30 years experience of the licensed trade we have got a nurse, retired plumber, gardener, lorry driver and secretary and we are having a great time. Plenty of media coverage so that makes sure we are busy enough to get through. Once that goes we will be ready to sell."
Right now there are far to many people ready to pick the meat off the pubs bones. The supermarkets are killers. 4 bottles of beer for £1. A litre of spirits £12. Even 2 main courses and puds with a bottle of wine £10. These things have to stop. Do we not see the state of the high street as it stands now? The heart has been taken from the town and village and posted on the outskirts in some large retail park. One stop shop. Does the teenager at the till care if your having a bad day. Do they call you sir or madam. Do they laugh at your rubbish jokes?

Be proud of your local pub. All publicans want is support. Ask not what your pub can do for you, but what you can do for your pub. The charges they make for a pint of beer or glass of wine are not high. If you take the initial purchase price, add VAT, staff wages, rent, heat, light, wastage, repairs and renewals, then try for a little bit of profit, you wouldn't bother.
I cant change the world, just try and ensure I fight my corner. D Ream once said "Things can only get better" I sincerely hope so, for all our sakes.

I will now get back to doing what I do best because as you can see I am not going to give the financial editor at The Times any sleepless nights. I will return to my kitchen and cook food for my happy and wonderful customers. I will clean beer lines and ensure the beer we serve is the highest quality. After that I will sleep safe in the knowledge that whilst I have breath in my lungs, I am ready for all the world throws at me. Thank you for taking time to read this blog. For more information on our wonderful village and fantastic pub visit www.brandeston.net

Wednesday, 18 November 2009

An inspector calls

Well, after waiting for 3 years here at the Queen's Head, we finaly had an inspector call. A table for lunch and 3 courses later he got up to pay. The result was that in his eyes we are worthy of one rosette for our food and service. To many it seems like small fry, to us it means a lot. We have always been proud of what we do, yet we still needed someone to come along and say you are worthy. This now places us in the top 1800 places to eat in the UK. That is a superb achievment for a small village pub.
As a chef who lives by what others think, it now gives you confidence in what you are doing. The team never doubted we were worthy, but it is always great when someone tells you and wants the rest of the restaurant scene to know. Suffolk is a healthy eating ground and we now fill a small void which had appeared in the guide books.
We now wait for the book to come out and the visit in 12 months time. Until then we will continue with all our hard work.
If you have considered a trip to Suffolk and wanted to know where we are, visit our web sites.
www.queenshead-brandeston.co.uk
www.brandeston.net

Tuesday, 17 November 2009

The way others see us

I started my career at the age of 15 working part time at a local hotel. I then moved away from home and followed the best chefs around to see how I could improve. I read the books and watched the TV shows. After a while I realised it was never going to be easy and it was to late to change. A little while longer and I realised I didnt want to change. I was happy being a pale, food obsessed, workaholic chef that needed to do something with his life.
After working in some lovely establishments I now find myself running a lovely country pub serving some cracking food. My journey has taken me through ownership of my own restaurant and a small hotel to here as well as working with food at the source. As I wait for Christmas to appear and bring all its hungry, I wait for one of the most important moments in my cooking life. I have very little control of how that moment will go, but I will be there to take part. This will be something that could set us apart from the rest. This is something that could make a huge difference to us as a business. As soon as this happens you will be the first to know.

Sunday, 15 November 2009

Welcome

Well hello one and all. It has been a wonderful couple of weeks. I have moved into the world of Twitter, twittered on to people I have never met before, donated chutneys for the blaggers banquet, Eaten at The Yew Tree Marco Pierre White and finaly set up a blog. All done in the time I have away from the stoves here at the pub....Phew!!! Sleep is for wimps!!

Anyway, I hope to keep you all up to date with the goingso n at the pub so you are all aware that the good old British country pub serving real ale and good food still exists. That is when time allows.